<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" ?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Bing: ISC Connection Details</title><link>http://www.bing.com:80/search?q=ISC+Connection+Details</link><description>Search results</description><image><url>http://www.bing.com:80/s/a/rsslogo.gif</url><title>ISC Connection Details</title><link>http://www.bing.com:80/search?q=ISC+Connection+Details</link></image><copyright>Copyright © 2026 Microsoft. All rights reserved. These XML results may not be used, reproduced or transmitted in any manner or for any purpose other than rendering Bing results within an RSS aggregator for your personal, non-commercial use. Any other use of these results requires express written permission from Microsoft Corporation. By accessing this web page or using these results in any manner whatsoever, you agree to be bound by the foregoing restrictions.</copyright><item><title>Setting BISS and ISC Range - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/setting-biss-and-isc-range.2310/</link><description>You want the ISC in the middle of it's range, while adjusting the BISS for optimal setting (Our idle should be 800 RPMs). But what exactly is the middle of it's range? If you log it, I think it goes anywhere from 0-100+. Does anybody have hard evidence on where it should properly be set @ idle with a logger using MMCD?</description><pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2026 20:32:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>FIAV and ISC removal - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/fiav-and-isc-removal.118/</link><description>The ISC basically gives you temp dependant idle changes. Good for a normal car I would think but I don't need it anymore. I"ll set the idle for warmed up and just crack the throttle a bit to get it warmed up when it's cold. Now the only idle controls will be the BISS and ECU. Much simpler for my purposes. Plus I've got no AC and PS is soon to go.</description><pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2026 21:55:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>ISC replacement options. - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/isc-replacement-options.34808/</link><description>Seems the ISC driver kursploded from a short, which explains why it was unplugged. The OEM replacement seems to be big money. Has anyone had any luck with the one offered by Rock Auto? Are there better options I'm not finding? I have yet to OHM mine out but with the motor unplugged and the damage I'd say there's a good chance it's bad.</description><pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2026 12:39:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>ECU/ISC Driver question - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/ecu-isc-driver-question.27390/</link><description>As I work through many, many issues with 1587, I have found that I have a blown ISC driver (IC105). According to ECM Tuning, the drivers do the following functions: IC104 controls ECU pin 14 ('90) or 6 ('91+), MAF Reset signal. The other half of the chip is unused on US DSMs. IC105 controls...</description><pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2026 07:35:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>1G DSM, get it up and running thread. - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/1g-dsm-get-it-up-and-running-thread.2495/</link><description>the ISC motor does click, but for troubleshooting purposes, I've just unplugged the connector. Unplugging it has had no effect on the ~30sec run time. As far as logging the ecu, I'm having a bit of trouble with that.. see this post: Topic: TMO Logger 'working properly' but 'link is down'.. suggs?</description><pubDate>Mon, 13 Apr 2026 02:12:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Crank/No Start - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/crank-no-start.25565/</link><description>check the connection to the CAS, ISC and TPS. i had my CAS not snugged down all the way (from a quick glance i didnt notice it wasn't down all the way) and the car wouldnt start, giggled the plug down a tiny bit and vrooom right on.</description><pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2026 20:13:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Voltage/Idle - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/voltage-idle.3517/</link><description>It sounds to me like your ISC (Idle speed controller) isn't functioning. It should hold 800 rpm no matter what. Setting the BISS ISC Testing You should also open the ECU and check for any damage to IC105 or IC107, the ISC drivers. Also, the 47uF cap in the ECU often leaks, eating an ISC trace that runs right under it.</description><pubDate>Tue, 31 Mar 2026 08:33:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Coolant to throttle body? - galantvr4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/coolant-to-throttle-body.6568/</link><description>The ISC will then take total control of idle conditions. This is still a very functional arrangement as the ISC is perfectly capable of handling cold-start conditions and keeping the rpms up when appropriate. The simplest way to deal with this is to get an FIAV block-off plate that leaves the ISC functional.</description><pubDate>Wed, 11 Mar 2026 01:25:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Test ECU Injector Drivers - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/test-ecu-injector-drivers.33862/</link><description>I had a 2nd ISC go out this weekend and I'm unsure how to determine if it took out the ECU driver. Is there a test I can do on the ECU to determine whether coil pair A and B are still good? The car is idle surging even with the ISC unplugged, so I'm leaning toward the ECU is fried again...</description><pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2026 17:55:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Running crazy rich. - GalantVR4.org</title><link>https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/running-crazy-rich.12565/</link><description>Hi guys, finally got my car back running again. did a bunch of stuff, it was running rich a while back last time i drove it, now its running crazy rich, i drove maybe 2 miles, and let it idle for about 5 minutes, and the plugs are completely fouled, completely black. i put an aeromotive fuel...</description><pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2026 16:18:00 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>